GUIDE TO BUYING A KAYAK

I can't remember all of the times people have approached me for advice on what boat they should buy or if this second hand boat is good value. The problem is there is no single piece of advice that will work for everyone. A kayak is very personal and what works well for one person may be completely inappropriate for another. Just take a look at how many manufacturers there are and how many models each manufacturer produce!

Todays boats tend to be very specialised and it's practically impossible to buy a single boat that will perform well in all kayaking disciplines. In my 15 years of paddling I've participated in slalom, whitewater, surf, placid water and more recently play boating. I've mostly used different kayaks for each! Over the years, in my opinion, kayaks have almost become fashion items - what's in one year is out the next. This produces quite a high turnover and is great for second hand buyers as there’s always plenty available on the second hand market.

Where to Start

Before buying a kayak you need to determine what it is that you intend to use it for. There’s no point buying the latest rodeo kayak if you want to tour the river Wye and you certainly wouldn't want to take a sea kayak down a grade 3 rapid! Always get as much independent advice as possible. The Internet is great and it’s worth spending time trawling through reviews, manufacturer websites and online forums!

First Time Kayaker

If you're new to kayaking (particularly if you're on a budget) I would suggest waiting until you've gained some of the basic paddling skills (e.g. the BCU 2 star award). You'll be better of spending your hard earned cash on personal equipment such as a buoyancy aide, dry-cag, wet boots or a kit bag. During this time you'll have plenty of time to try club boats and possibly some private boats (if you ask). During this time you'll pick up on what's a good boat and what's not. You’ll probably find that your skills will increase rapidly at first and if you had brought a nice safe tub to learn in, you’ll soon out grow it, finding it holding you back as you attempt to progress further.

In contrast, it's not a good idea to buy a boat that's going to be too advanced for your current skill level. You may find it very difficult to learn in and in some cases become disheartened and give up!

When deciding on a boat don't just take one persons advice, get advice from as many people as possible.

SECOND HAND MARKET

I'm assuming you're looking at a Polyethylene kayaks (plastic) as these, are by far the most common (the good old days of fibreglass are now a hazy blur from the past!). Here I've compiled a guide of all the things to look out for when looking at second hand kayaks. I've tried my best to compile a comprehensive list of everything to watch out for when looking at second hand kayaks. Generally speaking if you know or trust the seller, you can pretty much ignore most of the following.

Scratches and Gouges

Normally you can get an idea of the age and use of a kayak by the state of its hull. Fine scratches over the entire hull surface are normal and develop normally within weeks of use (some think this helps when surfing and has become a design feature of some kayaks). The ones to watch out for are deep scores or gouges. These can normally be easily repaired by a dry heat source such as a heat gun. Smooth areas on a scratched surface can be evidence of such a repair. If you suspect a repair site feel free to query the seller about the repair and damage prior to the repair. Deep gouges can normally lead to the hull being compromised or a significant weakening of the boat. Try to ascertain the thickness of the hull in the damage area then estimate how deep the gouge is. If the gouge more than say 25% through the hull then a repair is going to be required.

Plastic Stress

An important point to watch out for is stress marks. When plastic is heavily stressed it turns a white colour along the line of stress (scrunch up a plastic milk carton and look at the colour of the crease lines). In a kayak, particularly the longer ones, if mistreated the boats can fold or bend, normally the result of an ill judged seal launch or some kind of freefall with an undesirable outcome! Plastic boats normally pop back to shape but there will be a tell tail sign remaining (a stress mark). If these are evident you should really consider the boat to be very suspect.

Deformation

Deformations can occur over a period of time if a boat is stored inappropriately. Typically when a lot of weight quashes the boat over prolonged periods of time the hull can deform. When boats are attached to a roof rack some deformation will result, but this is normal. If a boat has a permanent deformation this can affect its characteristics and in some cases its strength. Plastic boats generally require internal foam blocks to help maintain the overall shape of the hull, normally vertical blocks at the front and back (i.e. to prevent squashing). Some people assume these blocks are merely for buoyancy but they do provide a structural role so always make sure these blocks are present and query the seller if they're not.

Blistering and Bubbling

Blistering and Bubbling can appear when a boat has been repaired incorrectly, typically with a flame or solvent source. This sort of damage can change the chemical properties of the plastic and significantly affect its strength.

Ultra Violet Damage (Sun)

Ultraviolet damage is often difficult to inspect. It occurs when the boat is stored outside in direct sunlight. Modern plastic boats are more tolerant to Ultraviolet damage but not immune to it! Normally, evidence of ultraviolet damage is discolouring of the plastic (fading of the vibrant colours). Older boats used to be mono-matt coloured making it easy to spot, new boats are multicoloured with a grain effect making it much more difficult to spot. If a boat has been stored outside try to ascertain how long it's been there.

End Damage

Kayaks that are heavily used on whitewater may have damaged ends (bow and stern), normally as a result of accidental impact with large rocks. Lookout for stress damage, gouges and holes in these areas!

Fixtures and Fittings (Internals)

Sometimes overlooked the fixtures and fittings can be costly items to replace so it's worth checking them out. All nuts and bolts must be present, preferably with rubber washers where they provide a watertight seal against the hull. Some poor quality metals are prone to rusting and rusty fittings can sometimes be an indication of a repair with non-standard components.

Take an adjustable spanner and screwdriver along and check out if the bolts are ceased. Ceased bolts can be a real bugger to sort out and if a bulkhead footrest is present, you may not be able to adjust it!

Foam blocks are often used for additional rigidity and strengthening of the boat. There's almost always a vertical block in the rear of the boat and sometimes in the font. Query the seller is there isn't one there.

Sometimes boats have additional padding stuck to them for personal comfort. If this is the case try to verify that correct adhesives have been used. Incorrect adhesives can lead to solvent damage to the plastics (see blistering and bubbling above).

Check out for rusting on all metallic components as this may impair operation of adjustable items. Fraying of backrests straps is another one to keep an eye on.

Security

Most boats have a serial number etched on them. Try to locate this number. If found and deliberately defaced query the legitimateness of the seller (the boat may be stolen). Ask if they have any other kayaking equipment, if they have nothing else this may be a cautionary warning (why have a kayak and nothing else!).

Receipt

Finally, always get a written receipt from the seller if you buy the boat from them, preferably with their signature. If you are unfortunately enough to purchase a stolen boat, at least you'll have a means of tracing it back to the seller.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

I can't stress this enough. Always try a boat before you buy. If you don't have access to a waterway, the absolute minimum would be to sit in the boat and stay there for a while, perhaps mimicking paddling motion for a few minutes (I know it looks silly but it does serve a purpose!). If it's going to hurt then you'll soon find out. Don't worry too much if it does at first, it may be that the boat is inappropriately configured for your comfort. Feel free to tinker a bit to ensure a more comfortable fit. I've often heard people saying things like 'No pain, no game!', but if I were to part with a significant lump of cash I would prefer to have a kayak that doesn't require me to get out of every 15 minutes to stretch my legs! There's plenty to choose from so make sure you get what's right for you.

Research

Most boat manufacturers have very good websites these days. Checkout their performance details for a particular boat. Weight ranges are very important, particularly for the smaller rodeo style boats. Also check out what the boats are intended for (intermediate, novice, club boat, play boat, creek running, surf etc). Just because a boat is a good play boat, it doesn’t mean it's going to be ideal on your next grade 5 descent!

Get Advice

You may be paddling as part of a canoe club. Ask around and listen to other paddlers opinions. Your canoeing/kayaking instructor(s) may be able to indicate if a kayak is suitable for your current skill level, or if a boat is beneath your ability level. Never accept the advice of one individual (some people may be biased - particularly your commercial supplier!), get a well-rounded opinion.

Finally

This is only a guide aimed at giving you all the information. Buying a kayak is a straight forward process once you know what you want! The canoeing/kayaking community is very friendly and there's always a friendly face ready with advice. All you have to do is ask!